Friday, October 26, 2007

Invading Istanbul (though I'm not exactly the first to do so)

People have been fighting over the city of Istanbul for centuries: Istanbul has been besieged countless times by invading armies and has served as the capital of the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin Empire (1204-1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922). During this time, the city has gone through more name changes than Jackie Kennedy. Since 667 BC, the city has had at least ten monikers, the most famous of which include Byzantium, Constantinople, Stamboul, and, naturally, Istanbul. Interestingly, Istanbul prides itself as the only major city to straddle two continents. The city is bisected by the Bosphorus Strait, which may resemble a river to the untrained eye. The Bosphorus, however, is a narrow strip of water that connects two seas – the Mediterranean Sea (via the Sea of Marmara) and the Black Sea. The eastern side of the city is called the “Asian” side, while the western side is the “European” side.

Istanbul straddles the East and the West not only geographically, but culturally as well. Despite its rather tumultuous history, Istanbul seems to have extracted the best that every passing culture had to offer and has subsequently incorporated these good bits into its own persona. The shopping areas, for instance, boast a distinctively European flair; I was reminded that I was in a Muslim city only when the city’s 2,000 mosques emitted their regular (and cacophonous) calls to prayer. Istanbul is not, however, just a city of mosques (many of which are architectural masterpieces); you can also find churches and synagogues. Even better, nobody seems the least bit interested in blowing any of them up.

And, while you’re enjoying not getting blown up, you can explore a captivating city. If you're a shopper, you'll love the fact that Istanbul is awash with (sometimes aggressive) vendors of Oriental rugs and other decorative arts (So I’m told. I didn’t devote even one moment to shopping during my visit.). You can also toss back some of the most delicious food you’ll ever encounter (Turkish food is quite similar to most other Mediterranean foods, so it’s heavy on olive oil, chickpeas, lamb, and such. That said, the Turks seem to have devised a method to make these simple ingredients taste better than most other Mediterranean cooks.) The streets (particularly on the European side of the city) are spotlessly clean, the architecture is breathtaking, and, if you visit during October (as I did), you’ll enjoy sublime weather.

In short, it’s easy to see why everyone’s been bickering over Istanbul for centuries; the place is fantastic. If you’ve ever considered visiting Istanbul, I’ve got a bit of advice for you: do.

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